Amadeus Hotel
Close to Stazione Centrale, this three-star offers clean, comfortable lodgings. It's certainly not the most exciting Milan property if you're here to see the sights, but it's a decent choice if you're just staying overnight.
Arform
One-stop-shopping for that effortlessly cosmopolitan Milanese look, with superb design pieces in natural materials from Finland to Japan, New York to Milan. Pack your Marimekko flower-print napkins and your train-station GB Milan clock in your Qurz wood-panelled briefcase, and you've got fusion style in the bag.
APT (Azienda Promozione Turistica) Office
Sadler
The Biblioteca Ambrosiana of Milanese haute cuisine delivers higher education for the palate, with glassed-in bookcases of rare wines and comfy chairs for serious cram sessions. Get wise to scampi with quail eggs and caviar, lobster with polenta gnocchi, or classes (in Italian) with Claudio Sadler by prior arrangement.
Fingers
When Brazilian chefs and Italian restauranteurs get together in Milan, they make sushi and beautiful music together. This trendy tatami-matted ristorante does a brisk trade in Italian carpaccio/sushi and squid ink risotto to Nobu defectors wanting less attitude and more food for their money.
Le Vigne
Blindfold yourself and point at the menu, because that's the only way to choose among zucchini flowers stuffed with artisanal herbed ricotta, risotto with shrimp and nasturtium flowers, and a salad of octopus, artichoke and zucchini. Get them all with a glass or two of the house wine and enjoy the stupor of the culinarily blessed.
The Touring Club Italiano
Westin Palace
Behind the Westin's modern facade of red marble is an elegant hotel with some gorgeous suites. Its good facilities help overcome the not so convenient location of Piazza della Repubblica.
Basement
Pity the fools who paid retail for your still-stylish yellow Fendi baguette and Vivian Westwood wrap skirt - at four times the price. Last season's stock, samples and slightly flawed seconds are sold here for up to 70% off. Basement specialises in Gucci, YSL, D&G, Fendi, Prada, Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier and Comme de Garcon.
Old Fashion Café
Head straight for the disco on the enclosed back patio next to the Triennale, and you'll find this party stalwart where the fashion-conscious mingle (where don't they mingle in this town?). Provided the bouncers are suitably impressed, you can dance 'til the sun starts to rise over Parco Sempione.
Internet Enjoy
Gattopardo
Fashionable Milan worships at the altar of design by day, and at night recharges at this deconsecrated church with candles everywhere and a bar where the altar once was. That mighty chandelier dangling from the cupola is mostly there for looks - but then the same can be said of the staff, and who's complaining?
I Pinco Pallino
That chandelier of glass animals must cast a powerful spell because enchanted parents surrender entire paycheques here on hand-sewn floating silk dresses ideal for tea parties in Wonderland, and embroidered overalls that make any tiny terror look like Little Boy Blue. Seasoned baby shower attendees agree: Pinco Pallino's baby gear branch on Borgospesso is the next-best baby gift to three wishes.
Le Trottoir
Party at your house - at least that's how it looks inside this former toll house, with art on the stairway, funky frescos and the inevitable cluster of artists attempting to discuss video art over the joyous din of a swinging ska band. That's right: that dinky raised platform is a stage, showcasing local alternative bands that get the whole place gyrating.
Peck
Fans of cold cuts will be awestruck by Peck's prosciutto-lined walls, and dessert devotees will pay their respects to the altar-sized sweets counter, but it would be a culinary sin to neglect Peck's famous wine cellar, legendary homemade ravioli and 3000 variations of parmigiano reggiano (parmesan cheese).
Bar Jamaica
If the Jamaica's bulletin board could, it would surely groan under the weight of notices pinned to it by artists and film makers advertising their latest projects - the inspiration for which probably came from a late night right on these premises. Art students from nearby Accademia di Brera nurse drinks for days on coveted sidewalk seats, but the covered patio is a good bet.
Hotel Speronari
If you're looking for cheap (for Milan) digs a stone's throw from the cathedral, this basic one-star may fit the bill. It's clean, friendly, and you have the choice of rooms with or without bathrooms.
Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia
Milanese like their food like they like their clothes: artful, inventive, in season and suitable for any occasion. No wonder everyone adores Aimo and Nadia Moroni's place, with memorable seasonal fare like fresh tagliolini pasta with truffles and turnips in winter, pistachio-encrusted prawns with artichokes for spring and a wine list that won't quit year-round.
Milan Clinic
One of several private clinics with English-speaking doctors.
Hotel Aspromonte
While this hotel is a little out of the way, it's in a pleasant neighbourhood and the Metro is just a short walk away. It's very good value, with reasonable doubles and a decent breakfast.
San Maurizio
Through a door by the altar lies Milan's hidden crown jewel: the restored 16th-century royal chapel. Bernardino Luini's breathtaking frescoes immortalise the star of Milan's literary scene at the time, Ippolita Sforza, and her family, alongside amazingly blissful martyred women saints - note Santa Lucia calmly holding her lost eyes, and Santa Agata casually carrying her breasts on a platter.
Isola Show Room
Everything here is handmade, streetsmart and way too cool for design school: mod enamel jewellery, limited-edition T-shirts with 'Spaghetti Club' slogans and wild-style graffiti paintings, all at starving-artist prices. Best of all are mother-daughter team Lavgon's one-of-a-kind quilted skirts with raw silk edges, and deconstructed wool jackets with vintage fabric inside the sleeves.
Mauro Bolognesi
It's the revival of the fittest at this vintage modern boutique. Bring back the classic bachelor pad with vintage starburst-patterned curtains and chrome lamps, or turn your den into a '60s record company waiting room with white enamel chairs with black vinyl seats and dramatic white-on-white vases.
Kineo
Cross a fashion week runway with a 1930s Cimitero Monumentale mausoleum, and you've got the perfect setting for high-drama drinks and devil-may-care disco. Lights dance around the room clad in floor-to-ceiling shiny black marble, though ultrasoft black leather banquettes make mobilising to the downstairs disco on weekends most challenging.
Caruso
The living is good and the people-watching even better at this sidewalk café in Milan's most fashionable piazza, with the best-dressed parade hauling designer booty and little dogs along Via Manzoni, gingerly descending Montenapo Metro steps in staggering heels, and pretending not to be flustered by the pulchritude of Emporio Armani Caffé waiters.
Antica Osteria Milano
A tribute to Milanese stoicism, this traditional, unfrilly trattoria fills up with suits (predominantly males) every lunchtime. The daily lunch specials are wholesome and well priced. Reward yourself with the essential sweet, meneghina alla griglia al Grand Marnier (baked Milanese sponge cake soaked in liqueur).
Sheraton Diana Majestic
This is one slick Sheraton, with a happening aperitivo scene and Deco furniture. While it's housed in a beautifully restored early 1900s building, the features are state-of-the-art - such as the Bose sound system in every room.
Pinacoteca di Brera
To imagine the ingenuity of the Renaissance, you kind of had to be there - and at the Pinacoteca di Brera, you can be. Stroll through frozen medieval tableaux produced in anonymous workshops, and suddenly you'll leap forward into relatable human dramas from the revolutions of Raphael, and Piero della Francesca to the refinements of Caravaggio and Tintoretto.
Il Mondo é Piccolo
These imaginative, well-crafted toys are just the ticket to jumpstart young minds and second childhoods. Attempting to balance the tricky Repo Man between two poles brings a new appreciation of physics principles, and wooden Hula Hoops beat gym memberships any day. Besides, it's never too late to enjoy a wheeled wooden duck on a stick.
Carlyle Brera
While this Brera four-star is popular with business travellers, its position close to Corso Como and some of Milan's best aperitivo bars makes it a decent option for those with more fun things on their agenda.
French Consulate
Luini
Stockbrokers and student radicals, models and their harried hairdressers might get together here and sing Kumbaya, if they didn't all have their mouths full. Panzerotti is Milanese for yummy at this popular purveyor of pizza-dough pastries stuffed with cheeses, spinach, tomato, pesto and prosciutto.
Hotel Gritti
An often-overlooked three-star, the Gritti has a fantastic location overlooking a relatively quiet square only 100m (330ft) from the Duomo. The rooms are serviceable but unspectacular and the location is excellent for the price.